Let's unveil and compare the timeless functionality of pleated pant suits to the modern and minimal fit of non-pleated pant suits to help you make a well-informed choice.
Just as fashion trends never really fizzle out but go in wide circles and return, so also is the ongoing debate on pleated versus non-pleated pant suits. Pleats on both men’s and women's clothing are probably older in reality than what we know; they are timeless classics of tailoring meant to serve both functional and style purposes. But to pleat or not to pleat is a curious question; it largely depends on your most favoured choice - whether to opt for personal style, or go for greater comfort. You must also factor in your body shape, as we will soon discover.
Let's take a ride together and investigate how both pleated and non-pleated pants came into existence, and how they compare on a number of fronts.
Whichever pants style you choose, you can count on Twelve19Styles to give you the best cuts. We have the tailoring craftsmanship to transform your appearance to a stately one with our tasteful catalog of made-to-order and bespoke men's suits and accessories that will match your deepest fancy.
The History of Pleated and Non-Pleated Pants: Where they Overlap
Without a definite timeline, pleated pants or trousers emerged way back around the Middle Ages and became more popular over time. Because they presented the wearer with an elegant silhouette and a nicely tailored, roomy fit. The trend featured prominently in the 19th Century and continued down the decades, refusing to exit men’s closets. The indulgence in pleated pants reached its peak in the 80s and 90s during the age of exaggerated pleats, boisterous double-breasted suit jackets, and bulby or billowing pant styles.
However, non-pleated pants rose to the challenge some time around the early 20th century. The taste for the modern, streamlined, and simplified look of non-pleated or flat front pants caught momentum and kept growing amongst the younger menfolk, thus beating down the excessive use of pleated pants. Flat front pants wasted no steam on bulk or extensive construction - they were simpler to produce and less bulky, giving them a neat and comported look. Non-pleated pants are a great go-to option to dress up or dress down for any occasion - they are the perfect definition of ‘less is more’.
Varieties of Pleated Pants
Pleated pants come in different patterns - single pleats, double pleats, forward pleats, and reverse pleats. Triple pleats also exist, though they are not popular.
Pleated pants feature folds of fabric that are sewn into the waistband. When cleanly done, the pleats create more room for free movement and can accommodate the widening of your hips, waist, and seat (bum) when seated. They are quite versatile, and they look stylish and professional. From observation, pleated pants naturally complement double-breasted suit jackets since both of them create a fairly roomy but sophisticated look.
Pleated pants have a relaxed and comfortable fit that can accentuate different body shapes. It can give volume to smaller builds, and gracefully wrap around curvy ones. It is ideal for men with large frames.
Single and Double Pleated Pants
Single pleated pants reveal a single fold of fabric on each side of the waistband. Single pleats are not quite as popular as the double pleats. Double pleats consist of a longer vertical fold of fabric starting from the waistband to the crotch area, and a shorter fold running straight down and close to the pockets. With two pleats, the pants appear with slightly more volume and a nicely tailored, shapely silhouette. They also look comfortable and laid back, making them suitable for men with bigger body frames, muscular or athletic builds.
Forward & Reverse Pleated Pants
Forward pleated pants feature folds of fabric turned towards the front of the pants (or towards the front zipper). They appear V-shaped, and can particularly flatter men with slim builds from the bum downwards. They are a more versatile choice for either formal or casual outings.
Reverse pleated pants present a more streamlined look that goes best with formal dressing, and so they are more popular. They feature pleats or folds of fabric turned backwards or outwards into the waistband, with an overall sleek look. The frontals appear straight and sharp with a more elegant silhouette. Reverse pleats are a standard that emerged from Italian men's fashion, and are now quite common in several American made-to-order suits.
Non-Pleated Pants
It appears more men desire non-pleated pants in the modern age. Non-pleated or flat front pants/trousers feature a plain and flattened no-fold stitching around the waistband. They have clean cuts and a fit-to-form design, with little or no break at the hems above your shoe. They are so versatile that they can switch between casual and formal wear with ease - more versatile than their pleated counterparts.
For that modern and sleek look of sophistication without wasting material, non-pleated pants are clearly in the lead. With neat cuts and a clean line from top to bottom, they are quite easy to iron. Flat front pants make it easy to dress up or dress down to suit any occasion, though at the sacrifice of accommodating your body frame while changing positions.
You will often find the non-pleated pants design in common clothing like denim/jeans trousers, combat/cargo trousers, and a hefty lot of chinos (though not all of them).
Suggested Reading: Double-breasted Versus Single Button Suits: A Fashionable Choice for Weddings
The Choice Between Pleated and Non-Pleated Pants: Which One to Go For
Fashion is a roller coaster - the pleated trousers are gradually making a comeback (it never completely went out of fashion anyway). So the choice of which one to pick between pleated and non-pleated pants is a matter of where you occupy as the pendulum swings between accommodating your body shape, your taste for aesthetics, and the pants functionality you are targeting. In tandem with Shakespeare's famous quote of ‘to be or not to be - that's the question’, we have fashion-conscious menfolk of all ages asking the question ‘to pleat or not to pleat’ time and again.
But one thing is quite clear. If you are looking towards the classical, professional look that gives better allowance for free movement; and is more forgiving of your body shape (whatever it is) - then pleated trousers are your loyal companions. On the other hand, flat front or non-pleated trousers will absolutely flatter your shape if you are slim built; but will deny you the space for adjustments in body frame as you move around or sit. You might say non-pleated pants are more versatile in switching between styles and usage, but more rigid in choosing body type or allowing free mobility. A big bum or generous belly will not find it easy rocking non-pleated pants.
Useful Tailoring Tips for Pleated Pants
Given that non-pleated pants are easier to cut and sew, and definitely more popular in the modern day. So let's dwell a bit on how to get those pleated pants looking stately and cool from the stylist’s end - just in case they appeal to you.
Bring Trousers Cuffs to the Fore
Modern trim trouser hems have been quite deliberate in kicking cuffs aside. But if you desire a smart set of pleated trousers, you should add cuffs to complement the roomy appearance of pleats around the waistband. If neatly done, cuffs also have a way of holding down the hems and adding some sleekness to the cuts.
Don't Forget - Good Fit is Critical
You absolutely need to get the fit right if you want your pleated trousers to serve modern vibes and look appealing. Except for when you are in motion, the pleats should lie flat as a norm. Aside from this, get the tailor to focus on doing a well-planned job on these key areas: the seat or bum, the waist, the length, and the inseam. They must neither be sloppy nor too tight.
A Size Match Matters in Jacket and Trousers
Avoid the oddity of matching a fitted jacket with pleated trousers; they will look miles apart in size and not as trendy as you would imagine. Accompany a roomy jacket with slim-fit or flat front trousers and you will look just as absurd. So, it is best to pair a smart jacket having suitably broad dimensions with a good set of pleated pants. That will create a balance of size.
Better still, give yourself that respectable and classical look. Don a statement making, double-breasted suit jacket over your pleated trousers in synced colours for that powerful and professional poise.
Before We Go - The Debate on Pleated Versus Non-Pleated Trousers Will Not End Soon
Take it or leave it, modernity never truly banishes the classic. And so the issue of whether the menfolk in the modern age consider it stylish to go for pleated or non-pleated trousers is dependent on personal taste, body shape, and desired functionality.
From the look of it, pleated trousers will never go out of fashion, especially amongst the older men who value the timeless and classic. Pleated trousers will definitely help men on the bigger side. While the streamlined look of flat front or non-pleated trousers appeal much more to the younger folks who pay attention to what's trending and have the body. With due respect, the choice remains yours to make.
We will love to read your comments and suggestions on this article. Please feel free to share your thoughts with us in the comment box below.
We are eager to Elevate Your Style to the extraordinary - join our thriving community of outstanding men and women who demonstrate a superb combination of intelligence, style and fashion. Let's advance the world together.
0 comments