Top 8 Rules for Buying a Quality Suit

Learn these 8 handy rules to guide you in spotting and buying a quality suit for a reasonable price - even if you are a newbie in selecting suits.

A skillfully crafted suit announces itself from a distance. It presents the wearer in a noble and attractive poise, a stately composure, a business-ready outlook. It definitely requires planning, because you should be able to spot and buy a high-quality suit that fits into your budget. There are rules for buying a quality suit you should not ignore. Otherwise you risk wasting money on a displeasing or substandard garb that will soon be cast aside. Note also that price does not indicate quality.

We understand that choosing a quality suit from a plethora of fabrics, colors and styles can put you in a daze, especially if styling yourself in suits is a new terrain. At Twelve19Styles, we deliver authentic tailoring craftsmanship you can trust right to your doorstep. Join us as we lead you into a practical suit buying guide to lessen your hassle in this article.

As you read along, remember to visit our style catalog of the very best precision-cut suits - both bespoke and made-to-order, for men with refined taste.

Essential Tips for Buying a Quality Suit

For a brief moment, ponder on the occasion or event for which purpose the suit will serve you, and what suit type matches it. Beyond this, apply the following key rules of suit buying to help you pick a befitting, high quality suit at a pocket-friendly price.

1. Plan Your Budget

For the first set of suits that will form the foundation of your wardrobe, plan a budget in the range of £150 and £1500 each (equivalent to a price range of $200 to $2000). This should help you curate some high-quality suits that can stand the test of time while you foray into other experiments.

2. Patronize an Experienced Stylist, Retailer, or High-End Fashion Brand

Unless and until you can choose a suit design and size with confidence, do not opt for made-to-order suits (otherwise called ‘off-the-racks’ suits). Chances are, you will choose a suit for a body type that is not yours - either the size is too small, too big, or not a perfect fit. You should rather start with a bespoke suit tailored to your exact measurements.

But this rule is not binding. If you must get a good suit and quick enough, go to a reputable physical store or retailer, and consult with the in-house style expert. That way, you can be sure of getting quality advice based on your body size and particular needs.

3. The Right Fit, Design & Size Always Matters

To ensure a perfect fit, five clear details you should not overlook in a suit are the shoulders, the chest, the sleeves, the width, and the overall length. Check that the shoulders and chest balance well and lie flat on your frame without sticking out, looking bulky, or being too tight. This is critical, because adjusting a misfitted suit at the shoulders in particular can be a daunting if not impossible task. But a good stylist can adjust the chest area and therefore the width of the suit. Good suit brands often leave some extra fabric folded in on the insides for any later adjustment.

Again, the ideal suit should only be as long as your waistline (or just a bit lower) to preserve its shape. And when you stand straight with your arms beside you, observe the length of the sleeves. The sleeves of your suit should reach down to your wrists and no more, allowing about a quarter to a half-inch of your shirt cuffs to peek out.

On the side, you may want to buy your suit jacket separate from the pants. Create a flawless and unified look by choosing a suit jacket and pants of the same (or compatible) suit color, design and fabric. And check that the trousers fit you nicely at the waistband and have the correct length. In any case, a good stylist can adjust the lengths of your sleeves, trousers legs, and waistband if need be.

4. Select the Best Fabric & Lining by Season

Sharp cuts and a well-fitted suit will give you the best advantage only when accompanied with the right material. Suit materials come in two layers - the outer fabric and the lining on the inside. The outer fabric comprises either wool, cotton, linen, tweed, or varied blends; corduroy, velvet, and cashmere are warm alternatives to wool. While suit lining is typically of silk or Bemberg material.

Judging by its characteristics, a wool jacket is warm and thick - which makes it appropriate for the cold weather months (autumn and winter). If paying £300 and higher poses no problem, you can choose 100% wool. Otherwise go for woolen blends of slightly lower quality. On the flip side, cotton and linen are breathable and light - the perfect materials for summer and spring garb.

For a starter, choose suits in dark solid colors like charcoal gray, navy blue, gray, and black - they are timeless choices. Should there be patterns, they should be barely visible. Ensure you have at least four suits in basic colors; then you can experiment with other patterns and colours. You might reserve a black suit for black tie events.

5. Understand the Functional Parts of A Suit to Choose Right

There are various customization you can request for in a bespoke suit. Let's do a quick survey of key details and options that can go into the making of your prized suit.

Buttons

Suit buttons can come in sets of one, 2, 4, 6, or 8 in front, and between 3 and 5 buttons on each sleeve. The 2-button suit is just ideal - a timeless and classical choice for social, semi-formal, and formal gatherings, particularly on a single-breasted suit. You also have a choice between buttons of plastic and natural materials.

Breasts

Suits can either be single-breasted or double-breasted in front. A single breasted suit possesses a single row of buttons in front arranged on a narrow overlap of fabric. It presents a trim, contemporary, and versatile look that is agreeable with both social and formal dressing.

Double-breasted suits possess two rows of buttons arranged on a wide flap of overlapping fabric. It often comes with 6 buttons and in some cases, two extra buttons may be added close to the top. It is perfect for formal events and not as versatile as single-breasted suits.

Lapels

The lapel is the flattened, V-shaped flap of cloth on top of the breast. It joins with the suit collar where the latter falls below the shoulders. Lapels can be either peak, notch, or shawl lapels. Peak lapels point upwards and protrude outwards; they are for very formal suits. Notch lapels form a small ‘notch’ with the collar. Though they look formal, notch lapels are less pronounced and appear moderate. While the shawl lapel is strictly for the high society formal look typical of tuxedo jackets, not the everyday office wear.

Pockets

You can have sewn-in pockets (or piped/jetted pockets) with the option of having flaps to cover them, no flaps, or looking slanted. The most versatile choice is a sewn-in pocket with flaps. Otherwise the pockets can be the patch type - sewn on top of the fabric. Patch pockets are more suitable for casual jackets.

Vents

Vents are the slits found at the back of a suit jacket, primarily to allow free movement. You can choose a single vent (one slit), double vents (two slits), or no vent. Double vents are the most practical and comfortable; as they cover the backside and look more structured.

Waistcoat

A waistcoat completes the 3-piece suit ensemble, which is the apex of suit styling. It is optional, and in certain instances a waistcoat can be worn smart and prim on matching pants without the jacket. If you aim to make a powerful impression at a corporate gathering or state function, accompany your suit with a waistcoat.

Trousers/Pants

The frontal part of trousers can come in any of three styles - either flat, single pleat, or double pleats. Pleats serve a more functional than aesthetic role on trousers. With pleats, your trousers can give you more room for free movement and hip adjustment when you sit. However, men with large bodies may prefer trousers with a flat front.

You will also notice that several trousers have waistbands - the strip of fabric that wraps around your waist. Waistbands make it easier to secure and balance the trousers on your body with other add-ons like belt loops, suspenders, side adjusters (with buckles), or buttons. Belt loops are quite common and useful for securing your trousers with a belt, though you may not need them if the trousers are a smart fit.

Also pay attention to the hems and cuffs of trousers. On each leg of the trousers, the hem is the free end at the bottom folded inwards and stitched up. While the cuff is the reverse - the fabric is folded up outwards and stitched up. Hemmed bottoms are common on trousers with a flat front, but is not a standard. Cuffs appear more stylish.

The length of the trousers should also matter to you, as it contributes to how smart you look. A proper trouser length should neither be noticeably short, nor should it stretch beyond your ankles. Take note of the break - the fold of fabric at the point where the trouser bottom touches your shoe. You may get a full break (generous fold of fabric), half break (just some fold), quarter break (the fabric slightly touches the shoe), no break (no fold, the bottom barely touches the shoe) and even negative break (the trouser bottom floats above the shoe). The full break looks more formal and is the classic choice. While the half break is versatile, as it serves both formal and casual wear.

6. Pick Your Shirt Well: Colour Blending, Collar & Cuff Fit

A standard white is the most formal and acceptable color for a shirt; you can safely choose suit colors of a wide variety along with a white shirt. Colors like light blue, lavender, or light pink are also good picks, giving you the freedom to choose suit colors as you please.

The shirt cuff needs just one button, but two-button cuffs are not uncommon on custom-made shirts. The collar should also fit well - not too tight or wide, just adequate to carry a decent tie. A turn-down collar with a medium spread or point is the most suitable.

7. Add Matching Accessories

Don't forget to plan for matching accessories like decent ties, shoes, belts, and shirts to go with your suit. Though optional, consider getting good cuff-links, pocket and wrist watches, pocket squares, tie bars, hats and other accessories later on to make your dressing truly stand out. But keep them in moderation - do not over-accesorize.

8. Look Neat - Your Grooming Should be Top-notch

You need to tick all the boxes - you don't want to wear the look of nobility in a suit and look dirty. Your personal grooming needs to be exemplary. Take heed to maintain neat hair, beard, mustache, and nails. You might add a dash of fragrance to smell alluring and ooze a magnetic aura.

Ready to Rev Up Your Style Game?

Your ability to identify and buy a good quality suit will face the test of time. Work towards building a suit collection you can be proud of many years down the line, by paying attention to the key details of your desired suit.

Do you have that special gift for identifying a good quality suit? Or you need more clarification on the content above? Please share your secrets and questions with us in the comment section below. We would love to interact with you.

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